Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
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